After a few hours of sleep, we awoke at 3 a.m., ready to embark on our journey to Dubrovnik for our 7 a.m. tour to Montenegro and Bosnia. We quickly packed, left our key on the counter, and set off. The drive was serene and traffic-free, with the night sky adorned with stars and the air crisp and warm. Most of our journey was under the cover of night, traveling along the freeway.

As dawn approached, the rising sun unveiled a breathtaking landscape of lush, green mountains stretching for miles, occasionally revealing glimpses of the distant sea. The scenery was stunning, and as we left the freeway for two-way roads winding up and around hills, the drive became even more picturesque. The curving roads signaled our proximity to Dubrovnik, and upon crossing the Franjo Tuđman Bridge, we knew we had arrived.

Navigating through Dubrovnik, we reached the Presidents Beach area and arrived at our destination: the President Valamar Collection Hotel. The hotel’s exterior and grounds were exquisite, making a striking first impression. We parked in front and headed inside, hoping to drop off our luggage as it was still early. The concierge was incredibly accommodating, assuring us that they would store our luggage and even deliver it to our room once it was ready.

Additionally, we were pleased to learn that we could park our car in the guest parking area free of charge. We were delighted and impressed by the hotel’s exceptional service and hospitality.

Montenegro & Bosnia Tour

Once parked, we met our tour guide, Jakob. Jakob, a lifelong resident of Croatia, was incredibly friendly and talkative, immediately putting us at ease. He outlined our itinerary for the day and offered several options since it was just the two of us on the tour. Jakob’s wealth of knowledge about Croatia’s history was impressive, and he eagerly shared fascinating details with us as we started our journey to Montenegro. Jakob informed us that the drive to the Montenegro border would take about an hour, with additional time depending on the border control traffic. As we drove, he delved into the rich and complex history of Croatia, starting with the origins of Dubrovnik’s name. The most common explanation is that it comes from the Proto-Slavic word “dǫbъ,” meaning ‘oak,’ with “dubrovnik” referring to ‘oak wood’ or ‘oak forest.’

He then took us through the historical timeline of Croatia. Dubrovnik dates back to the 7th century and was initially under the Republic of Venice. By the 14th century, it had become a free state known as the Republic of Ragusa, noted for its prosperity, development, and diplomacy. However, in 1667, a devastating earthquake almost entirely destroyed the city. In 1805, during the Napoleonic Wars, French forces abolished the Republic of Ragusa, incorporating it into the Napoleonic Kingdom of Italy and later the Illyrian Provinces. After the wars ended in 1814, Dubrovnik became part of the Austrian Empire, known as the Kingdom of Dalmatia until 1867.

Following the Austro-Hungarian Compromise, Croatia AKA Dalmatia became part of the Cisleithanian half of Austria-Hungary. After World War I, Croatia was divided between the Kingdom of Yugoslavia and the Kingdom of Italy. During World War II, the Axis powers invaded and conquered Yugoslavia, annexing large sections of Croatia to Italy, while the rest was left to the Independent State of Croatia. In 1990, as Yugoslavia began to disintegrate, Croatia declared its intention to become independent, officially declaring independence in 1991. This declaration led to the War of Independence, which lasted until 1995. By 1996, Croatia had become a member of the Council of Europe.

Jakob’s recounting provided a brief yet comprehensive overview of Croatia’s tumultuous history, illustrating the nation’s resilience and rich cultural heritage. As we continued our journey, we were eager to learn more and experience the beauty of Montenegro and Bosnia.

Jakob then shared a fascinating history lesson about Lokrum Island, a place shrouded in mystery and legend. According to local lore, the island was cursed by monks in the 1700s. The Dubrovnik Republic no longer wanted the monks there, and with the proposal of three of their nobles, they sold the island to nine Dubrovnik citizens. The monks left on a boat, never to return. Soon after, a series of unfortunate events befell those connected to the island, reinforcing the belief in the curse.

First, death struck the three nobles who had proposed the sale. One was killed by his servant, another drowned, and the third jumped to his death from Lovrijenac Fortress. The nine citizens who initially purchased the island were so frightened that they quickly sold it to Captain Tomasevic, an extremely wealthy man who subsequently went bankrupt and had to sell the island. Archduke Maximilian then became the new owner, transforming it into his summer manor. However, he was later executed by a firing squad, and his wife, Archduchess Charlotte of Austria, went completely insane.

Maximilian’s nephew inherited the island but drowned on his first day there when a strong wind overturned his boat. Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria moved to the island with Maria Vetsera, but both ended up dead under mysterious circumstances. Empress Elisabeth of Bavaria, Rudolf’s mother, tried to rid the family of the cursed island by offering it back to the monks, who refused to take it. An auction was held at this point, and Princess Elisabeth Windischgrätz persuaded her grandfather, Francis Joseph I, to buy the island. Five years later, Empress Elisabeth, thinking she had escaped the curse by selling the island, was killed by the Italian anarchist Luigi Lucheni.

Princess Elisabeth Windischgrätz herself later faced scandal and disinheritance after firing shots at a nightclub dancer in Prague. Finally, Archduke Francis Ferdinand and his wife Sophie intended to spend the summer of 1914 on the island but were prevented by their assassination in Sarajevo. After 700 years, the family lost their crown in 1918. Today, Lokrum Island is a popular day excursion destination for locals.

However, no one is allowed to stay overnight, and the only access is by boat. For those feeling brave, it’s said that the curse will be lifted only when all the wax from the candles used to curse the island is collected. Jakob shared many more intriguing facts and stories of Croatia, enough to fill a book, and I highly recommend delving into the history for a deeper understanding of Croatia and all it entails.

We finally reached border control, and fortunately, the line was short. Jakob, fluent in Croatian, efficiently handled all the necessary paperwork, making the crossing smooth and hassle-free. His expertise was invaluable, as we would have been lost without him.

Montenegro Tour - Lunch: Tramontana Beach Bar

Once in Montenegro, we stopped at a breathtaking viewpoint overlooking the Bay of Kotor. The serene blue waters were stunning, and the scenery was picture-perfect. Jakob then gave us a choice: brunch at a nearby spot or a visit to the Our Lady of the Rocks Island house church. Given our hunger, we opted for brunch.

A few miles up the road, we arrived at Tramontana Beach Bar. This upscale, charming spot was right on the water, offering a decent-sized menu. We ordered omelets, pepperoni pinwheels, and sweet bread.

The omelets were light and fluffy, filled with fresh vegetables and gooey cheese, offering a perfect balance of flavors. The pepperoni pinwheels

featured crispy dough rolled around spicy pepperoni and melted cheese, providing a delightful mix of textures and tastes.